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high_flyer

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Blog Entries posted by high_flyer

  1. Anyway I've been meaning to document this rebuild because I made some component changes I'd been putting off for months and this felt like the universe forcing my hand. If you're also flying a budget 5" freestyle build and you're on the fence about some upgrades, maybe this is useful. Or maybe it's just me processing my trauma publicly. Either way.
    The Frame Situation
    I was running an IFlight Nazgul frame, which honestly held up way better than it had any right to for the number of times I've crashed it. But the arm that snapped was already had a hairline crack I'd been ignoring. Classic pilot behavior. I'd been eyeing the TBS Source One v5 for a while partly because replacement arms are cheap and easy to find, and partly because I wanted a slightly more open build for better airflow around the ESC stack. Ordered the Source One. It shipped fast and the build quality is exactly what you'd expect for the price — functional, no frills, the standoffs are fine but nothing special.
    Frame swap on a 5" isn't a huge deal but it does mean basically pulling everything apart, which I hate and also secretly enjoy. It took me about three hours spread across two evenings mostly because I had to rerun all my motor wires and I cut them a little short the first time around. Measure twice, cut once. I know this. I still don't do it.
    Motors — Finally Made the Switch
    The motors I'd been running were some older BrotherHobby Returner R5s I bought secondhand. They were fine. Not exciting, just fine. Two of them had slightly noisy bearings and I'd been living with that hum for too long. With the rebuild I went ahead and ordered four Emax ECO II 2306 1900kv motors. I wanted something in the 1900kv range for 4S since I mostly fly parks and open fields rather than racing gates, and I didn't want to spend a lot. The ECO IIs have a solid reputation for the price and I've seen people put a lot of hours on them without complaints.
    Soldering the motors to the new ESC was the most satisfying part of the whole rebuild honestly. I've gotten a lot more comfortable with the iron over the past year. I'm using a Hakko FX-888D and if you're still on a cheap Amazon special, please just get a decent station. It makes such a difference. Clean joints, quick, no cold solder messes. I tinned the pads on the ESC first, then tinned the wire ends, then brought them together. Simple stuff but worth saying for anyone newer to this.
    The VTX Antenna Drama
    The original antenna mount on my old frame was garbage and I'd jury-rigged something with some heat shrink and prayers. When the crash happened the coax pulled out of the connector on the VTX itself — which, honestly, it was only a matter of time. I replaced the whole antenna with an Axii 2 stubby that I had sitting in my parts bin. If you don't have a couple of spare antennas in your parts bin you're going to have a bad time eventually. I also added a small piece of TPU printed mount I grabbed from Printables that actually holds the antenna at the right angle and protects that coax connection point a lot better than what I had before. Should've done this from the start.
    Flight Controller and ESC — Kept These
    My FC and ESC stack survived the crash without issue. I'm running a Mamba F405 MK2 with the matching 45A 4-in-1 ESC underneath it. I've had zero issues with this stack and I wasn't about to replace something that wasn't broken. I did take the opportunity to clean up my wiring though because it had gotten pretty messy over various repairs. Used some thin silicone wire for the power leads to the FC and zip-tied everything a little more carefully. The stack went back in clean and I'm genuinely proud of how tidy it looks now. For maybe six weeks until the next crash anyway.
    One thing I did change was the capacitor. The old one was a small 35V 1000uF cap I'd slapped on there originally and I swapped it for a slightly higher rated 50V version just because I had one and it fits fine. Whether that actually does anything meaningful I honestly can't tell you but the voltage spikes in Betaflight blackbox logs do look cleaner, or at least I think they do. Could be placebo.
    Tuning After the Rebuild
    New motors mean new tune, or at least checking your tune. I ran RPM filtering since I already had bidirectional DSHOT set up and that's been solid. What I did have to adjust was master multiplier — the new motors have slightly different characteristics and it felt a bit mushy on quick direction changes in my first test hover in the backyard. Bumped P and D a bit on roll, left pitch alone since it felt fine. Did a couple slow test flights in a big open area before I trusted it fully. I know some people just rip it immediately after a rebuild but I've learned my lesson there.
    First real flight was yesterday evening and it felt genuinely good. Snappy, responsive, and no vibrations that I can feel or see in the DVR. The ESC temps after a few packs were reasonable — nothing that worried me. Motors were warm but not hot.
    Takeaways If You're Doing Something Similar
    Honestly the biggest thing I'd say is don't wait for a crash to do maintenance you've been putting off. I knew those motor bearings were rough. I knew that antenna mount was sketchy. I just kept flying anyway. Sometimes that's fine and sometimes a tree catches you and now you're doing a full rebuild on a Tuesday night when you should be sleeping.
    The Source One frame is genuinely a solid choice if you want cheap arms and a community that's already solved most of the fitment questions. Motor-wise the ECO IIs feel great so far but I'll report back after I've put more time on them. And seriously, get a proper soldering iron if you're building anything more complex than a toy. It will change your life a little bit.
    Next up I want to actually try GPS rescue on this build since I've never set it up properly and that's a whole other post. Assuming I keep the quad out of trees long enough to get there.
  2. Spoiler: some of it looked incredible. A lot of it looked like garbage. Here's what actually happened.
    The Setup
    I got there about 40 minutes before sunrise, which in hindsight was the right call because I needed time to find a decent launch spot that wasn't in the mud. The reservoir has a gravel pull-off area on the north side which worked fine. Batteries were fully charged the night before, had my ND filters in my bag (more on those in a second), and I'd downloaded the offline maps in DJI Fly so I wasn't dependent on cell signal out there.
    What I did NOT do was check the dew point. My controller screen had a thin film of condensation on it for the first 15 minutes and it was a little stressful honestly. Lesson learned for next time.
    Camera Settings — Where I Started vs. Where I Ended Up
    I went in planning to shoot in manual mode with D-Log M because I'd watched probably a dozen YouTube videos about shooting flat profiles for more editing flexibility. In theory, great idea. In practice, my first 40 shots at golden hour looked like a washed-out nightmare and I completely panicked.
    Here's what I started with: ISO 100, f/2.8, shutter at 1/200. I had a circular polarizer on because I thought it would help with the water reflections. It did help with the reflections but it was also eating like 1.5 to 2 stops of light and at that point in the morning I just didn't have enough to work with. The images were underexposed and honestly just flat in a bad way, not in a "great latitude for editing" way.
    I swapped to my ND4 and bumped ISO to 400, slowed shutter to 1/100, and things started looking a lot more usable. The water had a slightly silkier look to it which I actually liked more than the frozen-sharp version. I think for early morning over water, slower shutter with a lighter ND is probably the move rather than stacking filters when the light is already low.
    I kept D-Log M on because I'd already committed mentally, but next time I think I'll just start in Normal color profile when the light is tricky and switch once the sun is properly up and I have more exposure headroom.
    Composition Stuff I Tried
    I've been reading a bit about aerial composition and I wanted to try a few things deliberately rather than just hovering and pressing the shutter button like I normally do.
    The one that worked best was flying out over the water and getting the drone low — like 30 feet or so — and looking back toward the shoreline with the tree line and the sunrise behind it. Having a strong foreground with the water texture right below the lens and then the tree line and sky in the background gave the shots actual depth. That was genuinely the best set of photos from the whole morning.
    I also tried the classic "straight down over the reflection" thing and honestly it was fine but it felt like something I've seen a thousand times already. I'll probably try it again when there's more color in the sky but that morning the reflection was mostly pale yellow and didn't pop the way I hoped.
    One thing I completely forgot to do was use the grid overlay on the screen to actually line up my horizon. Multiple shots have a slightly tilted horizon. Not a lot, maybe 1-2 degrees, but enough that I had to fix them all in Lightroom. Which I could do, it just would have been easier to get it right in the field.
    The Editing Side
    I use Lightroom Classic and I'm still pretty basic with it. For the D-Log M files I applied a LUT first — I bought a cheap pack online for like $12 that's specifically for DJI D-Log M — and then worked from there. The LUT got me most of the way to a usable color grade and then I adjusted whites, highlights, and shadows manually from there.
    The shots I'm happiest with ended up needing a slight warmth boost (orange and yellow in the HSL panel), a little dehaze to add some contrast to the distant treeline, and then some sharpening with masking cranked up so I wasn't adding grain to the sky. Pretty basic workflow but it worked.
    The underexposed ones from the beginning of the session I tried to rescue and some of them are okay but there's definitely some noise in the shadows that I can't fully get rid of. My sensor isn't huge so I need to just not underexpose if I can help it. I'd rather clip a highlight slightly and deal with that than try to lift murky shadows.
    What I'd Do Differently
    Honestly a lot, but that's fine. This was really my first intentional shoot and I came home with maybe 8-10 images I'm actually happy with out of probably 150 frames, which I think is not terrible for a beginner.
    The main things:
    Check weather conditions more carefully — not just wind and rain but dew point and humidity, especially for early morning shoots near water For low light golden hour, don't stack filters and don't start with D-Log M until you have confident exposure dialed in first Turn on the grid overlay and actually use it instead of trying to eyeball horizon level Fly lower more often — my best shots were all under 100 feet and a lot of my boring shots were high up where everything just looks like a flat map Bring a small towel for the controller screen if there's any chance of condensation I'm already planning my next shoot for next weekend. There's an old stone bridge about 45 minutes away that I've had my eye on and I want to catch it in overcast light rather than golden hour, which I've read can be really good for bringing out texture and detail without harsh shadows. We'll see how that goes.
    If you're also just getting into aerial photography and you've got tips on filter choices for mixed lighting conditions I'd genuinely love to hear them. Still figuring this all out.

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