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ESC pads keep lifting ? am i just bad at soldering or is something else going on

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this has been driving me insane. third time now ive had a pad lift on an all-in-one board while trying to solder motor leads. im using a ts100 at around 350c, 63/37 rosin core solder, flux on the pad before i touch it. i heat the pad, feed solder in, looks fine, then when i go to move the wire or sometimes just when im doing the next motor i hear that little tick and the pad has either lifted or cracked around the edges.

at this point ive ruined two boards, one was an aio that wasnt even that cheap. feels like im either pressing too hard or staying on the pad too long but i've tried being lighter and faster and it still happens sometimes. is this just a quality control thing with certain boards or is there a technique thing im missing. watched like four different soldering videos and they all kind of say the same stuff

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350 is probably fine but honestly i run a bit hotter like 380-400 and get in and out faster. the longer you sit on the pad even at lower temps the more you're cooking the adhesive holding it to the board. also ? are you tinning your wire ends before you even bring them to the board? you want as little time actually soldering on the pad itself as possible, like touch tin to pad, wire goes on, done in under two seconds ideally.

the other thing i'd check is if you're holding the wire down with the iron tip or anything like that. any mechanical pressure while the joint is cooling is a good way to crack or lift. just hold it still in the air.

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some of the cheaper aio boards just have genuinely bad pad adhesion, ive seen it on a few of the budget stacks where it doesnt matter what you do. but yeah what the other guy said about tinning everything first is the main thing. also make sure your tip is actually clean and freshly tinned before each joint, an oxidized tip transfers heat way worse and you end up sitting there longer trying to get the solder to flow which defeats the whole point

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