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finally got my Mavic 3 Classic dialed in after months of fiddling - sharing what worked

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so ive been flying the Mavic 3 Classic for about 8 months now and honestly the first few months i felt like i was leaving a ton of capability on the table. kept seeing footage from other people that just looked way better than mine and i couldnt figure out what i was doing differently.

turns out a big chunk of it was just flying in D-Log M and then doing absolutely nothing with the footage in post because i didnt understand color grading at all. i thought shooting flat was supposed to look better straight out of camera and kept being disappointed. once i actually learned a basic LUT workflow everything clicked.

the other thing that made a huge difference was slowing way down in normal mode instead of always defaulting to sport. i know that sounds obvious but i was so used to my old Phantom 4 where normal mode felt sluggish, the Mavic 3 Classic in normal is genuinely smooth enough for most shots if you just let it breathe a little. also turned down the gimbal speed in the settings which helped a ton with pans looking less robotic.

anyone else have stuff that took them way too long to figure out with this thing? feels like theres always another setting buried somewhere that changes everything

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Solved by Emily Zhang

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the D-Log M thing got me too, i was shooting in normal color profile for the first two months thinking i was getting the best quality and then someone on here mentioned it and i felt like an idiot. the difference in highlight recovery alone is worth it, especially if youre shooting around golden hour with any sky in the frame.

one thing i'd add is the hyperlapse modes are way more useful than i expected - free hyperlapse specifically. i set it up before a sunset last fall and just walked away for 45 minutes and came back to a genuinely usable clip. wasnt expecting much but it was probably the best thing in that whole edit.

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gimbal speed tip is underrated, good call. also if you havent tried the ND filters yet seriously just get a decent set. i use the Kase magnetic ones and the difference in motion blur at 180 degree shutter is night and day, footage just stops looking like a video game recording and starts looking more cinematic i guess is the word. dont need to spend a ton either, mid range sets work fine for most flying

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